How to experience the best of Manipur, Assam,
and Meghalaya in 2 weeks and a bit (Part II)

ASSAM

"Kaziranga sure is blessing you. Spotting rhinos is only for the lucky ones."

Wangdi Dorjee Khrimey was overjoyed. His clients had tasted success at the national park that is not only a Unesco-recognised world heritage site but also one that is referred to by Sanctuary Asia as "probably one of the richest, most picturesque wildlife habitats of southern Asia".

Wangdi, who lives in Arunachal Pradesh, and his Bangalore-based partner, Hemant Soreng, who runs Rustik Travel, had, in addition to making our hotel bookings and arranging a car and driver, helped us to finalise our itinerary for the Assam-Meghalaya leg of our Northeast holiday.

Hemant had also created a WhatsApp group just for this trip. Both he and Wangdi would check in at regular intervals to make sure that everything was going smoothly for us. When internet access became a problem, we resorted to sending each other text messages. And it was after I had informed Wangdi that we had spotted, from a popular viewing point, half-a-dozen rhinos, including a mother and calf (this was our second "spotting" experience after having gone on a jeep safari the previous day), that he had expressed his delight via SMS.

Of course, Kaziranga is not only about the one-horned rhino. We saw lots of deer, a few otters, junglefowl, a long-tailed shrike, herons. Here wild buffalo lolling in the grassland, there vultures surveying the scene from the top of a tree. At one point, as we headed out of the park at the end of our safari, a huge buffalo, all muscle and horns, crashed out of the thicket on our right, ahead of our Maruti Gypsy, and just as swiftly vanished down the slope on the left and into the swampy waters where the rest of the herd had collected.

Also, Kaziranga is not only about the National Park. There is the Orchid Park where visitors can also enjoy watching traditional dance performances; there is the Numaligarh Dhaba with its unbelievably succulent borali fish curry; there is the Karbi Anglong Ethnic Village; and there are the numerous tea estates to explore, if you are so inclined.

AFTER TWO DAYS in Kaziranga, we would make our way to the world's biggest river island, Majuli. Just getting to Majuli would be an experience because we would have to cross the mighty Brahmaputra on a ferry, car and all.

We would spend two days at a resort in Majuli before taking the ferry back, driving to Jorhat airport, and taking a flight to Guwahati where we were scheduled to go on a dinner cruise on the Brahmaputra. The next morning, our driver, who would have driven from Jorhat to Guwahati, would rejoin us and off we would go to Shillong in Meghalaya. Now is that an exciting schedule or is that an exciting schedule?

BORDERING ON THE AMAZING

It's around 9.30 a.m. on March 25 and we are on the way to Kaziranga from Guwahati. We have barely left the city when our driver, Deepak Bahu, makes a casual comment: "Assam on this side of the divider, Meghalaya on the other side." At that point, we needed to fill up the tank, so Deepak cut across to Meghalaya and topped up. Then it was back to Assam. Why did we do that? Petrol costs one rupee less per litre in Meghalaya.

NEXT STOP: KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK

Hemant Soreng had told us earlier that the drive to our resort in Kaziranga, about 200 km from Guwahati, could take up to five hours, with a halt for lunch. But we had been advised in the morning by Wangdi Dorjee Khrimey that it would be best to go on the jeep safari in the afternoon that very day, so we did not stop for a meal and we made it to our resort in a little over three-and-a-half hours. The roads are excellent in this part of the world and our Renault Lodgy was up to the task of getting us to our destination in time for us to meet up with Raju Karmakar, above, who was to take us on safari in his Maruti Gypsy.

BUT FIRST, A LIGHT MEAL (NOT IN THE PHOTO!)

At Jupuri Ghar, our resort, the manager had been requested to keep a bite ready for us and, before departing for the Eastern Range of Kaziranga National Park, we fortified ourselves in the open-air restaurant for what we were sure would be an extraordinary outing.

Kaziranga National Park is split into four zones: the Central or Kaziranga Range; the Western or Bagori Range; the Eastern or Agaratoli Range; and the Burapahar Range. We had read online that it was best for tourists to take the elephant safari in the Western Range if they wanted to have a chance to get close to the great Indian one-horned rhinoceros. The favoured ranges for jeep safaris, we had read, are the Eastern, Central, and Western.

Coincidentally, the Park authorities had decided to conduct an elephant census during our stay in Kaziranga. Which meant elephant safaris had been taken off the table and each day only one Range would be open for jeep safaris. Hence Wangdi's thoughtful suggestion to go on the jeep safari as soon as we arrived in Kaziranga.

A DRIZZLY DAY, A SLUSHY PATH

At the entrance to Kaziranga National Park, despite the unseasonal rain, there is an air of expectancy as we tourists wait for our drivers to wrap up the formalities. We have handed over to Raju Karmakar the all-inclusive fee of Rs.2,650 and, while I am clicking these photos, he is waiting in line at an office nearby in order to hand over the cash and get the all-clear to proceed into the Park.

IT'S RUSH HOUR IN THE PARK

The single track is narrow, the safari vehicles are many so some deft manoeuvring is called for. All the drivers are experts, though, and we are struck by a thought: These hardy men could quite possibly be a handful on a Formula One circuit.

SPOTTED (1)!

That rhino was just one of about ten we saw during the safari, while wild buffalo, including this magnificent specimen, were aplenty.

THE SUN SETS OVER KAZIRANGA...

...and the safari comes to an end. What a bone-rattling, nerve-jangling, but exceptionally thrilling ride it was!

RUSTIC CHIC DOES THE TRICK

Cosy, serene, and convenient, Jupuri Ghar was our home for two nights. Its location is ideal: it is set off from the highway so the outside world is kept at bay, and the places tourists would like to visit are all within motorable distance. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the Eastern Range, for example; also, the road to the Central Range lies just across the highway; and the Orchid Park, the Karbi Anglong Ethnic Village, the Bagori Viewing Point, and the Numaligarh Dhaba (which is also a popular tourist attraction) are all a short drive away.

Minus Point (for those who care about these things): There is no TV at Jupuri Ghar. Plus Point: Each cottage is air-conditioned (not that we needed the AC, thanks to the intermittent rain).

Minus Point: The lighting could be a problem for people who like reading in bed. Plus Point: Hey, fire up that Kindle!

Minus Point: There's no WiFi. Plus Point: Who cares?

TAKEAWAY DELIVERY

For local residents, this may be an everyday sight but for tourists it's an opportunity to ask the driver to pull over in order to take a closer look. Upon inquiry we learnt that the elephant was headed home and slung across its back (no, not the mahout) was lunch, and quite possibly dinner, for a calf too young to go out foraging.

BLOOMING BEAUTIES

At the Kaziranga National Orchid and Biodiversity Park, to give it its official name, there are photo opportunities galore. Incidentally, the official state flower of Assam is an orchid: the Foxtail.

MESMERISED BY FOLK DANCERS

We could not take our eyes off the stage at the Orchid Park when these graceful artistes began to perform the Bihu dance. Bihu is Assam's main festival and the Bihu dance is integral to Assamese culture.

There was also an energetic dance performance by members of the Mishing ethnic tribe.

And a remarkable feat of dexterity came in the form of dancers from the Karbi Anglong tribal community.

A PEEK INTO TRIBAL CULTURE

Compared with the Orchid Park, the Karbi Anglong Ethnic Village does not have much going for it. There must have been only about 10 other tourists doing the rounds here on the day of our visit. That is because there isn't a lot to see apart from sculptures showing everyday life in the village and a variety of homes (empty at the moment) representing the building styles of different tribal communities. We were told by Deepak that the village takes on a different aspect on major festival days. During this period the homes are used as lodges for visitors and there is, apparently, barely room to walk.

AND IT'S TIME FOR LUNCH

Despite its unprepossessing appearance, the Numaligarh Dhaba is popular with tourists. It's here that Deepak, in the photo at bottom right, brought us for lunch, on Wangdi's recommendation. The highlight of our meal: the aforementioned borali fish curry as well as the mustard chutney.

SPOTTED (2)!

At the Bagori viewing point, above, we spent a considerable amount of time taking in the scene unfolding in front of us (pictures below). It was only after we had our fill that we returned to Jupuri Ghar and began preparations for the next part of our journey. We were to leave for Majuli early the next morning.

MOVING TO MAJULI

Behold the mighty Brahmaputra dwarfing the ferry coming from Majuli to Nimati Ghat in Jorhat (watch a brief video clip here). This is the vessel we boarded for the one-hour downstream journey to the world's biggest river island. The return trip two days later took about 90 minutes because the ferry was travelling upstream.

MADE IT!

That's our car on the ferry. Once all the waiting vehicles are loaded and after the passengers have also made it aboard, the ferry begins its journey. 

FERRY TALES

When I posted these pictures on Facebook, my good friend and former journalist colleague, Anthony D'Silva, commented, "Precarious. Is it safe?" Oh yes. Safe as houses. For the locals, it may have been just another day of commuting. But we, as tourists, even though the journey was uneventful, found the whole experience exciting.

AND ON TO MAJULI TOWN

Having disembarked from the ferry at Kamalabari Ghat, we drive off in the direction of the town. We are in our car right behind that Tata Magic, which is the primary form of public transport in this region.

OUR HOME FOR TWO NIGHTS

Carefully hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Majuli town, Deka Sang resort (pictures above and below) was not easy to find and the owner, Kaushik Nath, had to send out one of his staff members to guide us. Nath told us that he wants to keep his property off the beaten path. He said he wants Deka Sang to be a world away from the cares of everyday life. So no TV, and no WiFi either. Also no air-conditioning, which, Nath said, is not required. He was certainly right about that.

WHAT MIGHT THIS BE?

There's a hint right there for the sharp-eyed. (You will find the answer here.)

AN EARLY BIRD...

...captures an early bird trying to get the worm. At 5 in the morning it is bright enough to see for miles around and this is the scene that greeted me when I woke up and stepped out onto the balcony. As for stepping out onto the balcony, it was a simple matter... see collage below. 

THE DAPPER MR. NATH...

...proprietor of Deka Sang, is a mini-celebrity. One evening we saw him seated at the head of a table at the resort surrounded by a group of people. At one point some of the girls in the group got up and began acting out a scene. An impromptu audition? Perhaps. Since Nath is a well-known filmmaker and actor, in addition to being a founder of Prag TV, aspiring artistes are sure to benefit from his advice.

MASKED MARVEL

At the Samaguri satra, or Vaishnavite monastery, in Majuli, what a splendid act by Dayal Goswami, who hails from a family of renowned mask makers. At one time, according to the Assam Tourism website, there were 65 satras on the island. But many were relocated to safer areas as a precaution against floods and erosion, so there are only 22 left now. Bangalore's Deccan Herald newspaper had published a feature on Majuli's satras two months ago. You can read the article here. The paper has also published a feature on the "Masks of Majuli": read it here.

ARTIST AT WORK

A walk to the Mishing settlement in Chita Dar Chuk village near Deka Sang brought us to the home of this local weaver from whom we bought, for Rs.1,300, an elegant and colourful handwoven shawl. 

VILLAGE SCENES

The Chita Dar Chuk post office (above), working hours from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. BELOW: Villagers, making their way home, are curious about the strangers in their midst.

THE RETURN JOURNEY

On a cloudy morning on March 29, we are on our way to Kamalabari Ghat to catch the ferry to Jorhat.

A TIGHT FIT

Cars, motorcycles, people: A view of the forward portion of the ferry from the roof where the pilot's cabin is situated.

WHOSE TURN IS IT NOW?

Also on the roof: A game of cards helps to pass the time.

STEADY THERE, SKIPPER!

The young man at the steering wheel is all concentration as the ferry heads upstream on the Brahmaputra.

JORHAT STREET SCENE

On our way to Jorhat airport from Nimati Ghat, we come across this interesting juxtaposition of colours.

NEXT UP: DINNER CRUISE ON THE BRAHMAPUTRA

We reached Guwahati in the afternoon, checked into the Hotel Nakshatra, where we had spent a night on our arrival from Imphal on March 24, and by 6.30 p.m. we had arrived at the Alfresco Grand jetty in Machkhowa, eager to board the MV Manashputra and go on the famed dinner cruise, beginning at 7 p.m. At Rs.1,000 per person, it's a steal.

ROUSING START

Exuberant presentations on board the cruise ship, from a solo dance to a Bihu performance and a "gayan bayan" act (video below), got the audience into the mood for what was to follow.

DANCE, LITTLE LADY, DANCE

With the on-board DJ's active encouragement, many in the audience got up from their seats and began to shake a leg.

GRAND PERFORMANCES FOLLOWED BY A GRAND DINNER

It is almost 9.30 p.m. and it won't be long before the cruise ship returns to the jetty. So we make our way to the lower deck where spread out before us is a buffet of gargantuan proportions. What a grand evening this has been!

GOODBYE, GUWAHATI

It's March 30, and we are now beginning the final leg of the holiday. In a couple of hours we will reach Shillong, our base for the next five days. On the agenda: Cherrapunjee, Dawki, Nohwet, Mawlynnong, Mawphlang, and, of course, the Scotland of the East: Shillong.

POSTSCRIPT

MAJULI MEMORIES: What a coincidence! While I was working on this blog post, up pops a notification on my Facebook timeline. It is a link to a bewitching 18-minute National Geographic documentary on Jadav Payeng, who, from 1979 onwards, has been planting hundreds of trees in Majuli to save the island from erosion. Watch the documentary here.

COMING UP: MEGHALAYA